On a current summer season afternoon, the Persée jewellery counter upstairs within the Galeries Lafayette Champs-Élysées was busy, with some consumers inquiring about piercings, however most ready to get the model’s Eternam chain, delicate hyperlinks of gold which might be soldered on — endlessly.
“It’s like a jeweled tattoo,” mentioned Nawal Laoui, the founder and proprietor of Persée, a Paris model specializing in diamonds. “Customers like the idea of having a second-skin bracelet, which can be forgotten for its lightness, but remembered for its uniqueness. It’s a strong symbol of a bond that is welded to you, never to be removed again.”
The chains — obtainable in 18-karat white, yellow or rose gold and with hyperlinks which might be 0.6 millimeter (0.02 inch), 0.8 millimeter and 1.0 millimeter huge — really might be lower off with pliers, if needed. However Ms. Laoui, who flies typically, careworn that her Eternam bracelets and rings have by no means induced an issue at airport safety. (They probably must be eliminated, nevertheless, for an MRI or surgical procedure.)
Such “eternal” jewellery has grown in reputation over the previous few years, mentioned JB Jones, co-founder of NYC Jewellery Week.
“In 2019, we hosted a party to kick off NYC Jewelry Week and we had a guest jeweler on site applying permanent bracelets,” she wrote in an electronic mail. “Catbird, a Brooklyn-based jewelry company, had also just begun offering permanent bracelets in-store. At that time, I didn’t foresee the trend would become a staple of a jewelry wardrobe in 2023, but it has.”
Ms. Jones mentioned she believed that such everlasting jewellery had grow to be common, not less than partially, as a result of it was a standing image. “Most obviously in the case of the Cartier Love bracelet,” she wrote, referring to the bangle that comes with its personal screwdriver. “But also there is simply that undefinable human connection to jewelry: That jewelry is beautiful, it feels good and it means something, often something very important to us — whether it was given by a best friend, a family member or a lover — so we sometimes simply don’t want to take it off.”
Since Persée launched its model of the type in November 2021, Ms. Laoui mentioned, clients of all ages and genders have bought them. Costs for bracelets, the most well-liked merchandise, vary from 200 to 360 euros, or $220 to $395. “Customers,” she mentioned, “often mention special events such as weddings, anniversaries or graduation ceremonies.”
The model now presents the service in Paris; London; New York; Doha, Qatar; Kuwait; and Dubai, United Arab Emirates. And it’s planning to open a retailer this fall in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia.
The Lengthy-Distance Pals
When Martine de Limburg Stirum and Margaux Faure Ferré met 10 years in the past, they discovered they each had an curiosity in artwork and have been pals ever since. Ms. Stirum, 52, lives in Brussels, however her work within the up to date artwork trade typically brings her to Paris, the place Ms. Ferré, 41, owns a trend and luxurious consulting company.
And the ladies had been collectively in July for Ms. Ferré’s wedding ceremony on the Amalfi Coast of Italy. “Martine was my maid of honor,” Ms. Ferré mentioned. “We decided to get the chain to symbolize our friendship.”
“Physically we see each other less,” Ms. Stirum mentioned, “but this piece of jewelry will allow us to recreate a bond, both through its form and its symbolism, while being an elegant piece of jewelry. It’s elegant and timeless and it has a minimalist feel.”
That they had made an appointment by way of the Persée web site and, on the counter, started to debate the chain weight, the colour (“White gold or yellow gold?” Ms. Ferré mused) and put on it (“Should it go with my watch or on the other side?” she requested her pal).
Ultimately, the ladies chosen the thinnest chain, with Ms. Stirum getting it in yellow gold on her proper wrist and Ms. Ferré in white gold on her left.
The Persée technician, Leslie Dion, pulled the ends of the chosen chains from the massive rolls beneath the counter, wrapping every girl’s wrist after which reducing the fitting size together with her pliers.
Ms. Ferré then sat on a luxurious royal-blue chair subsequent to Ms. Dion, and, going through the welding machine, put her arm underneath the laser beam level. The laser has low depth, so neither the welder nor the client must put on security glasses throughout the process.
“I have to find the two chain links and put them face-to-face,” Ms. Dion defined, utilizing two pairs of tweezers to carry the ends of the chain collectively as she nudged Ms. Ferré’s wrist to the fitting angle. “The laser will make the metal melt and solder the links together.”
The client doesn’t really feel something throughout the welding, she mentioned, and whereas every process is barely totally different, the method takes lower than 5 minutes.
An expert welder who works for Persée skilled Ms. Dion to work the machine. “It’s not difficult,” she mentioned, “but you need precision and confidence.”
Along with bracelets, Persée additionally presents anklets for €350 — “very popular in the summertime,” Ms. Laoui mentioned — and rings for €90 to €130. Diamond charms, beginning at €200, might be added to any chain configuration.
“The material is so delicate, you almost forget it,” Ms. Ferré mentioned after the welding was achieved. “It’s discreet and elegant, you can wear it day or night, it’s not conspicuous and it blends well with other jewelry or a watch.”
The New Yorkers
The subsequent clients had been Honey Forestier and Peter Schwab, each visiting from New York Metropolis, the place she works as a contract illustrator and he produces picture and video shoots, amongst different actions.
“I’m French, but I moved to New York 10 years ago to study fine arts,” mentioned Ms. Forestier, 31.
“We met eight years ago on the dance floor at a party,” mentioned Mr. Schwab, 32. “It was a classic spontaneous N.Y.C. night.” The 2 have been shut pals ever since.
With none hesitation, they each settled on white gold. “We’re getting matching ones,” Ms. Forestier mentioned. She received the thinnest chain, whereas Mr. Schwab, 32, received the thickest (“It’s more masculine,” he mentioned).
He selected to place it on his proper wrist, reverse the ’70s metal Rolex he all the time wears on his left. Ms. Forestier picked her left wrist; she mentioned she didn’t typically put on bracelets.
That they had booked a web-based appointment, too. “We came together to Paris for a few weeks, and it’s a French brand and it’s symbolic of our friendship,” Mr. Schwab mentioned.
Ms. Forestier accomplished his sentence: “And it’s very chic and easy to have that symbol forever.
“I wouldn’t commit to it if it weren’t that brand. You don’t really feel it; it’s so light you almost forget about it.”
Mr. Schwab mentioned he shared the sensation: “I’m not worried at all about the forever aspect.”